2021 - Bass Strait Trip

 

Weather, Waiting and Bass Strait

I received a cryptic text in December last year ‘are you still paddling’.   While Covid had greatly impacted my paddling in 2020, since the lockdown had lifted I had tried to paddle, mountain bike ride and sail as much as I could.   So the answer went back – ‘yes’.   The response was ‘interested in a paddle to Tas – in a double with me? And 6 others?’   My answer was quick ‘Yes, when are you looking at?’

Bob, Grant and I had been planning a Bass Strait crossing back in 2018 but a range of reasons had prevented it and I’d basically given up on the idea.   While I’m not a sea kayaker, a walking trip to Flinders Island had whetted my appetite for visiting the Bass Strait islands.   The only way to get there appeared to be by sea kayak.

Bob’s text came out of the blue and I was in.   The trip was being organised by a group from the Adelaide Canoe Club and was planned for April/May 2021.   The group consisted of Phil Doddridge and is son, Pat, Bella Kostermann and Anthony Ardenburg, Bernard Goble and Mark Loram, Hugh Stewart and Bob Newlands and me as late inclusions.   Everyone was in Adelaide except for me and we had four doubles and one single.  

Bob had bought a Mirage 730 which needed a bit of repair.   It turned out to need quite a lot of repair and Bob did a great job, with assistance from his partner Alex and advice from Grant, to get it ready for the big crossing.   Extra compartments gave us a lot more storage room and added strength to the boat.   I flew over to Adelaide twice for training paddles which gave me a chance to meet the rest of the group and to see how the kayak was shaping up.   Bob also drove over to Melbourne for some training paddles and to get advice from Grant on the repairs.   Grant was great providing lots of advice and organising paddles to help with our training.

Covid made things a bit more complicated with both of us having to get entry permits from South Australia and Victoria whenever we travelled.   Bob had to cancel one trip due to Victoria’s 5 day lockdown.   It also made it interesting with most of the paddlers coming from South Australia, the trip commencing in Victoria and going to Tasmania.   The beach at Little Mussleroe Bay wasn’t an official entry point to Tasmania so we had to get special approval from the Tasmanian Police.   We also had to agree to pay the cost of ‘recovery’ if it was identified that we had been in a hot zone in the 14 days before the trip started.

The plan was to paddle from Port Welshpool, to Refuge Cove, then Hogan Island, Deal Island and on to Flinders Island before the final section from Clarke Island to Little Mussleroe Bay on Tasmania’s north east coast.   The paddling was due to commence on Tuesday 20 April, enabling the SA crew to drive over and settle themselves at the Long Jetty Caravan Park at Port Welshpool.  

The week before the trip was windy and raining, not auguring well, but the weekend before was light winds so hopefully we would get our weather window.   We all arrived at Port Welshpool on Sunday 18 April to enable a start the next day.   However, the weather window was shutting quickly.   The decision was that we might get away on the Friday!  

That left us with several days at Port Welshpool and the Long Jetty Caravan Park.   Fortunately the caravan park had a handy camp kitchen which we took over.   The delay enabled Bob and me to do a test pack and paddled.   We realised that the boat was quite heavy and didn’t handle great in seas.   Performing more as a submarine and going through the waves rather than over them.   Weight had been a bit consideration and we had weighed everything we were intending to take.   We were over 100 k in total and needed to lose some weight.   The food got reduced, extra bottles of metho were ditched as were spare t-shirts, bowls, snake bite bandages and insect repellent.   We only thing we regretted was the insect repellent when the mosquitos at Johnny Souey started eating us.   Another pack and paddle test and the kayak was handing much better.

We checked out the local area, Welshpool, Foster and Agnes Falls and spent a lot of time reading or napping.   The concern was that we wouldn’t get a window at all and that the trip would be called off without us getting anywhere.   I’d heard of people who had camped at Port Welshpool for two weeks only to abandon their attempt.

By Thursday the decision was made.  There was a window early next week which would enable us to get to Flinders Island.   We would leave on Saturday (24/4/21) and paddle in ordinary conditions to Refuge Cove ready to take advantage of lighter winds from the right direction.   A celebratory counter meal was had at the Welshpool pub on Thursday night and Friday was spend doing last minute preparations.  

Saturday 24 April

We were up early and transported our kayaks and gear to the beach next to the Long Jetty.   Kayaks were packed and lots of photos were taken by our support crews.   Grant had come down to farewell Bob and me and to take Bob’s car back to Melbourne.   Bernard’s wife, Frances, was there as were Anthony’s sister and brother in law.   They would take the various vehicles to Tasmania in order to pick us up at Little Mussleroe Bay in about two weeks at the latest.   We had used up four of our rest days but finally we were on our way.   The distance to Refuge was 43 km.

The wind was still strong from the west north west but we would be sheltered by Wilson’s Prom.   We paddled down the channel with the falling tide and then across the exposed area of Corner Island.   A short stop at a beach to check an issue with Bella and Anthony’s kayak before continuing on to Johnny Souey for lunch.   We arrived at Refuge Cover about 4.30.   It had been a long day with a variety of conditions, pouring rain, wind gusts of 30 knots, gentle following seas and finally calm conditions with a slight swell.   We’d battled into head winds and also enjoyed the advantage of sails.

At Refuge there were several boats in the cove but no campers.   Flood damage had led to Parks Victoria closing the tracks and campsites at the southern end of the Prom.   We camped at the boaties’ campsite.   It was amazing to have the whole area to ourselves.  

There was telephone coverage from a spot above Refuge Cove.   So every weather site was consulted to work out the best day to head to Hogan Island and the crossing of Bass Strait.   We ended up having two lay days at Refuge waiting for the conditions to improve.   It was lovely to be back at Refuge, to walk up to Kersop’s Peak and explore the area.   However, we were all getting a bit toey, and wanted to be off.   Our spare days were quickly disappearing, meaning that we may have to do some big paddles back to back or in the worst case, call off the trip.

Finally the decision was made to head off to Hogan Island on Tuesday 27 April. 

Tuesday 27 April

We set off about 7.20 a.m. for Hogan Island – distance 50 km.   It was beautifully calm and quiet in Refuge Cove and close to the Prom.   The plan was to head further south than the direct line to enable us to make the most of a forecast wind change in the afternoon (and take into account the tide) and hopefully a sail, rather than paddling all the way.   As we came out of the shelter of the Prom the swell increased and we started to feel the wind.   The seas were quite messy and the swell was about 2 metres.   The conditions were a bit worse than anticipated and were probably marginal for sea kayaking.   We also had two shipping channels to cross.   We saw three ships with only one being a bit of a concern.   It was great to see the islands off the Prom, such as Rodondo.   We also saw lots of albatross soaring above the waves, together with petrels.   About half way across we could make out Hogan Island on the horizon.   As planned we managed to hoist the sails and get some assistance from the wind.  

The campsite at Hogan is on the north east corner.   To get there we had to paddle between the main island and a large rocky outcrop.   The rebound from both the island and the rocks made for an interesting paddle.   Finally we were all through and it was a relief to paddle into the small beach at the camp site.   Bernard and Mark were particularly relieved as they had broken their rudder when a wave pushed them 5 metres sideways.

At Hogan Island there is a light on the hill, lots and lots of shearwater nesting holes, lots of penguin burrows, a water trough and a hut!.   The hut, which had been rebuilt after an earlier one burnt down, was fantastic.   There was a light, a gas stove, emergency food and even a sleeping bag.   We quickly pitched out tents amongst the penguin burrows and Bernard set to fixing his rudder.   

Group meeting that night to plan our next paddle, another big one, to Deal Island.   The plan was another early start.   We all went off to bed amongst the cacophony of the penguin rookery.

Wednesday 28 April

We were all getting ready for the paddle when a team meeting was called.   After the big paddle to Hogan a few people weren’t keen for another big paddle.   There were concerns about the replacement rudder but the main issue was more bad weather mid next week.   We needed a few good days to be able to get to Flinders, some reasonable weather to paddle down Flinders Island to Clarke Island and finally we needed a nice day to paddle Banks Strait.   All this had to happen in time for flights and the ferry on 8^th/9^th May.   We might be able to make it if we paddled straight through but it wasn’t clear if we would get the day we needed to paddle Banks Strait any way.   It was all getting too tight.   We’d used up too many of our lay days at the start and now we didn’t really have any wriggle room.   We all agreed that we would have to turn around.  

The most favourable winds to paddle back to Refuge were on Saturday so that meant three days waiting on Hogan.   We could see Deal, it was just there.   My main purpose for doing the trip was to visit the islands, in particular Deal Island.   I’d spent a week on Flinders but I really wanted to get to Deal.   There was lots of discussion but in the end the plan was that Bob and I would paddle to Deal Island and return on Friday, to paddle back to Refuge with the group on Saturday.

It was strange paddling off by ourselves.   While Deal Island was just there, it was still 42 k away.   The day was beautiful, light westerly winds but still a swell of about 0.8 metres.   We managed to get some help from the sails and made it there is about 5 hours.

Deal Island, is actually three islands, Erith, Dover and Deal.   Between Erith/Dover and Deal there is Marshall Channel.   The current is quite strong in the channel.   As we entered the channel from the southern end (there was an ebb tide) we were met by a stretch of whirlpools.   We then paddled into East Cove, actually on the western side of Deal Island.   At the jetty we were met by the caretakers, Craig and Deb.   They were incredibly welcoming and were coming to the end of their two months on the island.   The camping options were, Erith Island (including a hut), Garden Cove and Winter Cove on Deal Island.   We opted for Garden Cove so we could explore Deal Island.   Back into the kayak, we paddled around to Garden Cove, a magic small cove on the northern end of the island.  

Thursday 29 April

It was fantastic having a full day to explore the island.   From Garden Cove we walked along the air strip (uphill and with a big dog leg) and through the casuarinas to the caretakers house, via the Telstra chair.   There are actually two Telstra chairs.   They are actually chairs built where you can get a telephone signal.  

Up at the main settlement Craig and Deb invited us in for a cup of tea.   It was great to sit on a couch and drink a cup of tea with milk, together with a plate of pumpkin humus dip, cherry tomatoes and baby cucumbers.   A fantastic change from dehy and freeze dried food.   Craig and Deb told us about the kayakers who had been stuck on Deal for two weeks waiting for their weather window.   Deb had given them some produce from the vegie garden to keep them going.  

We then headed up to Barn Hill and some great views over Dover and Erith Island.   We also checked out the grave of light house keeper, John Thomas Hague and the remains of the whim, which was used to haul oil and goods up to the settlement.   Then on to the light house.   The tallest light house in the southern hemisphere.   A whim was also used for the last climb up to the light house as it was too steep for the bullocks.   The view from the light house was fantastic.   Flinders Island was just over there (actually about 60 k).   Near the light house was the site of a plane crash in 1943.   An Oxford bomber on submarine patrol, with four airmen on board, crashed into the island and killing all on board.   We walked down to the site.   It was chilling to see the remains of the plane and a small memorial to the men.  

From the light house we walked to the site of another disaster, Squally Cove and the wreck of the SS Karitane.   However, the ship had struck the island during a fog and no lives were lost.   The survivors did have difficulty climbing up from the cove.   We found it a hard climb even with a track.

Back to the main settlement and we visited the museum in the old light house keeper’s building, before filling our water containers at the water tank and heading back to Garden Cove.   It had been a beautiful day and I was extremely happy to have got to Deal Island and to be able to explore it.

Friday 30 April

In the first light we paddled out of Garden Cove.   A spectacular sunrise and even a pod of dolphins.   It was another beautiful day, with light winds but a lot of haze.   On the paddle over we could see Deal Island and Hogan Island all the way.   Now as we paddled in the direction of Hogan Island we couldn’t see anything.   About half way across we did see an unusual sight, six jet skis!   Apparently they had started in Tasmania, travelled via King Island to Victoria and were now heading back to Tasmania via Flinders Island.  

Although the wind was light it was a head wind so we had to paddle all the way.   As we got closer three land masses appeared.   We didn’t have the chart with us so we weren’t sure what we were seeing.   Hopefully one of them was Hogan Island but which one.   (Note we did have an extract of the chart, Google Earth images of the island, two GPSs and two compasses)

I went for the far right hand one while Bob went for the middle one.   At least we both agreed that the left hand one was Wilson’s Prom.   A bit further on and I had changed my mind to the middle island while Bob changed his to the far right hand one.   It turned out that it was the far right hand one.   About 8 hours after we left Garden Cove we paddled into the small camping spot.   We were expecting to see tents and people but no one was there.   The others had gone.  

We weren’t totally surprised as they needed to do what was best for them. 

We realised that we needed to do a better job of navigating as our next leg was back to Refuge Cove.   This wasn’t a large island but a small cove so we needed to make sure that we paddled directly to it.   Bob pulled out the map and started drawing lines.   We worked out the impact of the tide, how far off we would need to head and how to check if we were on track.  

Saturday 1 May

Another early start to get across to Refuge in daylight.   We got up to find the island covered in fog.   We could hardly see the beach.   The tide was right out so the small bay was a mine field of rocks.   Between the rocks and the fog it was an interesting experience to make our way out of the bay.  

We were confident that the fog would lift.   Because that is what fog does.   We decided that we would go right around the rocky outcrops off Hogan Island so that we didn’t hit any rocks.   It was quite surreal paddling along with huge rocky islands suddenly appearing out of the fog.   Once we were clear of Hogan Island we set course for Refuge Cove.  

The only problem was that the fog didn’t lift.   We were totally enveloped in fog.   We hadn’t anticipated this and now the thought of crossing two shipping lanes without being able to see anything was a concern.   Our plan was that I would make the call, whether to sprint across the bow or to turn parallel and also sprint.   Surely a ship should be going slowly and sounding a fog horn but who knows.   Fortunately we didn’t encounter any ships but we did encounter some music.   In the middle of the fog someone was playing 80’s rock music.   We didn’t see anyone and we don’t know how far away they were but someone was out there.

About 7 hours after we left Hogan Island the rocks at the entrance to Refuge Cove appeared out of the fog.   We had made it.   It wasn’t until we got to the beach that we realised it was a sea mist and that the land was in beautiful sunshine.

Sunday 2 May

A sleep in!   What luxury.   Just a short paddle to Johnny Souey in misty light easterly wind.   Johnny Souey wasn’t marked as a waypoint on our GPSs and we weren’t quite sure where it was.   We tried three different spots and searched Google maps before we realised that it had been the first place we landed!

Monday 3 May

Another sleep in but this time because of the tide.   There was no point trying to paddle into Port Welshpool until we had the tide with us.  

We ended up leaving at 11.20 a.m.   There was still a reasonable paddle to get to Port Welshpool and Grant was going to pick us up at 3 p.m.   The light easterly wind had given way to a fresh north westerly.   This wasn’t ideal but at least we could get some protection from the land.   We snuck along the shoreline for as long as we could.  

Finally we had to brave the elements and strike out.   It was best to take the seas, about 0.8 to 1 metre high, diagonally.   The direction we actually wanted to go would have the seas at right angles, which was good at all.   We put out heads down and slogged it out into the wind.   After about 30 minutes we could turn down wind and head towards the channel.

We hoisted the front sail and were flying along.   As we neared the channel to Barry Beach Marine Terminal a big tug, which had been anchored obviously decided that the tide was high enough, started moving and heading towards us.   After all the paddling we’d done it would have been a shame to get cleaned up at this late stage.   We opted to cross in front of it.   We had to sprint a fair way before we were safe.  

We hoisted the rear sail and with the full impact of the flood tide we roared up the channel to Port Welshpool.   As we flew past the main wharf Grant called out to us.   It was ten past three.   We done very well to be on time.   Our top speed was over 13 kph!   The big trip was over.   We hadn’t made it to Tasmania but we’d paddled further than if we had.   More importantly we’d had a great adventure.

A big big thank you to all the Adelaide crew who’d organised the trip and let us join them.   More thanks to Grant for his support and encouragement.   But the biggest thanks to Bob, for doing a fantastic job getting the kayak ready (Go Team Buzzin!) with lots of help from Alex and for being a great paddling partner.   

Check out the photos/video of the trip:

Part 1

Part 2