Alison's Excellent Adventures

So, the band was back together. Bob, Grant and I were back in Tasmania and about to embark on a paddling adventure. This time we were taking the Bass Strait Freight boat to Lady Barron on Flinders Island. From there we would paddle around Truwana, as it is known by the local Aboriginal people.

Tuesday, 17 February, we arrived about 7.30 a.m. at Lady Barron after a fairly calm crossing. Strong westerly winds were forecast for the next few days so we decided to head clockwise around the island, with the land giving us protection from the winds. Today, however, there was an easterly blowing. We packed out kayaks and headed off, paddling in the lee of Flinders Island and then across to Brigg Islet and the western side of Vansittart Island, so we were protected from the wind and the swells.

We could see sheep and cattle and lots of dry-stone fences on Vansittart Island. We stopped in a rocky bay on the southern side of the island to have a look. There was a farm house below Guncarriage Hill, a prominent feature on the island. The island was originally occupied by sealers. However, for a period, George Robinson established an Aboriginal settlement there after an agreement with the Tasmanian Aborigines. The Aborigines were then moved to Wybalenna, with disastrous consequences. A very tragic period in our history. The sealers returned and by 1854, 28 people were living on the island.

Back in our boats and we paddled to Farsund Spit, a long sandy spit from the south east corner of Vansittart Island. There was a narrow channel between the spit and Puncheon Point (Truwana). On the ocean side of the channel was the wreck of the Farsund. The Farsund was a Norwegian iron barque which was wrecked on the Vansittart Shoals during a gale on 9 March 1912. It is amazing how much of the wreck is still visible.

From the spit we worked out a line through the waves on the bar, some of which were breaking, and past the Farsund. It is always interesting how small waves seen from the shore are actually much bigger when you are paddling them! We all made it safely through, but it was a bit ‘exciting’ at times.

We pulled into the beach a short distance south of the point at Tar Point. We’d paddled a total of 17.14 ks. After setting up camp we did a bit of exploring. There were quite a few birds, including Pied Oystercatchers, Pacific Gulls, Great Cormorants, Silver Gulls and even a pair of Hooded Plovers.

Wednesday 18 February – the wind had gone to the west but first thing in the morning it wasn’t too strong, so we decided to make some distance down the east coast. We packed our kayaks and headed out, keeping close to the shore. We managed to break out the sails and got a good ride. The wind quickly built up and by midday we decided to pull in and camp. We’d travelled a further 11.57 ks down the coast.

We camped at a small lagoon, which was shown as an estuary on the map. It was a pretty spot, with Hogans Hill and Mount Kerford reflected in the lagoon. There was a flock of Red-necked Stints in the shallows. These tiny birds travel all the way from Siberia.

Thursday 19 February – we got up at 6 a.m. to get some paddling in before the forecasted strong westerly comes in. We got some more sailing in and managed a further 10 ks, camping at the eastern end of Burgess Bay. We were immediately east of Cape Barren. The waves look messy around the point and we’re happy to camp and do some exploring.

After setting up camp we headed over the huge sand dunes which are just in from the beach. The sand dunes are amazing, and it looks a bit like the snowy top of a mountain. On the other side of the dunes, we walk the short distance to Tinkers Gut. A great name for a small inlet on the southern side of Cape Barren. From here we can see down the coast and the white caps caused by the strong westerly wind. We walked back to camp around the rocks of the cape. There was fresh water in pools between the rocks and we collected a few litres, just in case we needed it.

This spot seems to be a favourite for March flies and spiders. First thing next morning I unzipped my tent, only to let a rush of mozzies in. They were closely followed by several Huntsman spiders. It was definitely time to get up!

Friday 20 February – the wind had greatly reduced. We packed our kayaks and paddled around the Cape. It was a very different place to yesterday. There was a reasonable westerly swell, and some rebound off the rocks, but it was much calmer than yesterday. We paddled past the entrance to Tinkers Gut and then across Jamieson Bay and around Cone Point, which did look like a cone and into Petticoat Bay. We’d knocked off another 13.6 k. We set up camp in the dunes and had lunch.

Petticoat Bay was described as having a lovely campsite and the most reliable water on the island. But the main reason I wanted to camp here was to visit the lagoons at Crows Beach, just west of the bay. We set off for Crows Beach and did find lots of fresh water running across the rocks.

There were several lagoons inland from the beach. The first one was nearly dry but there was water in a nearby creek. The creek was a haven for breeding dragon flies. Bright blue Blue Ringtail dragon flies were everywhere. At Silver Lake there were lots of birds, both on the lake and around the shore, including Chestnut Teals, a White-faced Heron, Hooded Plovers and Grey Teal. Bob and I decided to head to Crystal Lagoon which was about 400 metres further inland. Bush fires and regrowth made it a very tough bush bash but it was worth it. There were a larger body of water and more birds, including a couple of White-fronted Chats, Black Swans and an Australian Pipit. Two White-bellied Sea-eagles soured overhead. It was a magical spot. We also managed to see a Flame Robin on the way.

Saturday 21 February – we paddled along Crows Beach to Passage Point. Ahead of us was Sea Lion Narrows, a narrow straight between Passage Point and Passage Island. The tide was with us but there was a light head wind against the current. On the eastern side of the narrows there were lots of white caps and confused seas. Once we were in the narrows it was remarkably calm. Then on the other side we encountered a number of whirlpools.

From here we paddled across Kent Bay to Sloping Point. We pulled into a small cove around the point and had lunch. We then paddled the last stretch across Battery Bay to White Lagoon. Here we found a great campsite amongst the Casuarina trees at the western end of the beach. We’d paddled 22.3 k. Nearby was Wombat Point and the coveted, phone coverage.

Sunday 22 February – the wind had howled all night and was still blowing strongly in the morning, so we decided to stay at White Lagoon. It was a lovely, protected campsite at the mouth of Rocky Head Rivulet. At hightide we took to our kayaks and headed up the river. It was great to explore the estuary and the lower reaches of the river, as it narrowed and eventually became a mass of scrubby trees. We turned around and had a pleasant sail back to camp. Later that night there was a reasonable fall of rain. We set up the tarp and managed to collect a few litres of fresh water. Bob even got up in the middle of the night (and the rain) to fill the water bottles.

Monday 23 February and another day of strong winds. After a leisurely morning, we walked along a track to Battery Creek. The track gave great views of the nearby hills as it went through flowering tea trees, big old grass trees, casuarinas and groves of eucalyptus.

There was a nice campsite at Battery Creek and then as we walked onto the beach two White-bellied Sea-eagles took off from the rocks. The creek formed a narrow gorge running into a pretty lagoon. Upstream there was fresh water and a perfect swimming hole. The river was a favourite with the birds, particularly a large flock of Pied Cormorants. We walked back along the coast, grateful that it wasn’t high tide and we could walk on the rocks. Otherwise, some bush bashing would have been required.

Tuesday 24 February and glassy conditions on the bay, perfect paddling weather. We paddled to Lascars Point, names after the Lascars (Indian sailors) on the Sydney Cove, which was wrecked on the nearby Preservation Island in 1797. A light tail wind had us breaking out the sails and numerous terns were fishing in the bays. After 14.15 k we arrived at Thunder and Lightening Bay. We were now on the western coast of Truwana.

We set up camp in the southern corner near the mouth of the Modder River. Mouth is probably not correct as the river didn’t actually reach the bay due to a very large sand bar, however, it did create a beautiful lagoon. The campsite was very picturesque but fairly exposed. There was also a large expanse of sand to drag our boats over.

In the afternoon we explored the river in our kayaks. We saw more birds, a pair of Black Swans, Chestnut Teal, Hoary Headed Grebes and even some Firetails in a tree by the river. We paddled up to a road and managed to limbo our way under the bridge. But we soon ran out of paddleable water and had to back out and turn around.

Wednesday 25 February and an early start so we can leave at high tide (to avoid a long drag) and before the wind strengthens. Around Cape St John it was a bit messy with a south westerly swell and rebound off the rocks. The wind was behind us, so we set up the sails again. We paddled into Long Island Passage as the wind strengthened. It wasn’t far to the only settlement on the island, The Corner.

We had planned on filling up at the bbq area water tank, but it was pretty well empty. However, Bob, ever resourceful, filled up with rainwater from a nearby sit on top. We headed to the community store and pigged out, buying biscuits, salami, carrots, tomatoes, yoghurt, honey and chocolate. I really out did myself, eating a bacon and cheese sausage roll, followed by a cream bun and washed down with chocolate milk.

Back to our boats and the tide had gone out. It was now about 250 metres to the water! It was hard work dragging fully laden kayaks across the sand. Grant did a great job helping both Bob and me with our kayaks. Once we made it to the water, it didn’t take us long with the strong tail wind to cross over to Long Island.

The tide was out at Long Island too, so there was a bit of work to unload and carry our gear and boats across the sand to the beach. We camped amongst the tea trees, just over the sand dunes. We were now about three quarters of the way around Truwana. It was great to look across Franklin Sound and see the multiheaded peaks of Mount Strezlecki.

Thursday 26 February and another early start. Once more so, we’d get the high tide and the reduced wind for crossing Franklin Sound. There was a strong easterly wind, so we paddled into the headwind to the shelter of Doughboy Island. It was then a hard slog across to Oyster Rocks. However, then we could head to the west and get the advantage of the wind. Grant and I put our sails up and we were having a great time sailing and surfing the waves. Bob was just surfing and doing fine. It was at this point that my mast came down. I recovered the sail but that was the end of my fun.

We arrived at Trousers Point to find three sea kayaks on the beach, two doubles and one single. We all set up camp at the campground. It was luxury to have tables and seats, a flush toilet and fresh water. The other group consisted of John and Rachel, Trevor, Tony and Ian. They had paddled up from Musselroe Bay (Tasmania). The paddling community is a small one and it soon became apparent that we knew the same people.

The easterly wind howled for the next few days. Trousers Point isn’t great in an easterly and it was amazing how loud it was amongst the casuarinas. We kept ourselves amused by exploring the area, including walking up Mount Strezlecki. Unfortunately there was misty rain and no view at the top. John organized to hire a 12 seater bus for a couple of days. This was fantastic as we could then tour around the island and enjoy a meal at the Interstate Hotel in Whitemark.

Monday 2 March and finally the easterly wind had subsided. The other crew were heading south to (hopefully) set themselves up to cross Banks Strait and return to Tasmania. It was great to be stuck with them and hopefully we will meet again.

We were heading east to Lady Barron and the completion of our circumnavigation of Truwana. We will be catching the Bass Strait Freight boat on Tuesday. The wind was behind us for the first half of the paddle to Pigs Head Point. But then it was a slog into a fresh northerly wind. We finally arrived at Yellow Beach, just east of Lady Barron, and set up our last camp. We then walked into town for a hot shower and a meal at the tavern.

Tuesday 3 March and we’re on the boat heading back to Bridport and the end of our trip. We’d only paddled 140 k in the two week trip but we’d achieved our goal to paddle around Truwana. This trip wasn’t about doing long distances or battling huge seas. It was about exploring this beautiful island, the scenery and the wildlife. It is certainly a very special place. As we sailed through Franklin Sound, past the island and Mount Strezlecki and Mount Munro, I wondered if I would ever be back here. We’ve paddled a lot in this area, but we haven’t been to Bable Island, or Goose Island or Badger Island, so, perhaps, we will be back.

Check out the video compilation of the trip.